Lining



Filed Feb, 12 1920 J. RAAB ET AL LINING 3 Sheets-Sheet l wow-e1 view illustrates the left front upper JOSEPH B AND JACOB TENDRICH, 0F BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

Lianne."

Application filed February 12, 1920. Serial No. 358,314.

To all whom it may concern: 4

Be it known that we, JosErH RAAB and JACOB TENDRIOH, citizens of the United States, and residents of Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Linings, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to improvements in linings. The objects of the invention are to provide an improved trouser lining and an improved and novel method for sewing the improved lining to the trousers. This invention also discloses a device for carrying out the method. In the accompanying drawings illustrating-this invention Fig. 1 is an inside partial view of a portion of a pair of trousers or pants, showing the improved lining as it appears on the garment.

. Figs. 2 and 3 are fragmentary views showing modifications in sewing the lining on. to the trousers.

Fig. 3: is a sectional view of the l ning taken on line 4-4 of Figure 1.

Fig. 5 illustrates the first step in the novel method for sewing the lining to the trousers Fig. 6 is a plan view .of the parts shown in Figure 5 and illustrates also parts of a sewing machine attachment for carrying out the method.

Fig. 7 illustrates the second step in sewing the lining onto the trousers.

Fig. 8 is a perspective view showing a sewing machine attachment used 1n the method of accomplishing the first step in sewing on the lining.

Referring to Figure 1 thereference numeral 1 denotes the pair of trousers of which only so much is shown as is necessary for the purpose of understanding this ll'lVGIltlGlL The side 2' of the trousers is the inside, while 3 denotes the outside of the trousers. The

1'.- tion near the waist and is identified by the front button flap 4 and the center back seam 5. 6 is a strap for hanging the garment up. A lining hereinafter more specifically referred to extends all around the trousers at the waist line and is sewed to the trousers at either end as at 8 (only one end is shown).

In order to fully understand the importance and scope of the invention, it shouldbe noted, that heretofore it has not been pos sible to make a lining and sew it on by machine and at the same time have it appear as well as if it were done by hand. It

should also be noted that a flat lining having the appearance of being hand finished greatly enhances the appearance of the finished garment and increases its commercial value.

'When a lining is sewed on by the method heretofore followed, it is done by laying the lining on top of the trousers and sewing the two together by a single stitching on the machine. .Thereafter the two members are folded with their edges and the stitching inside and. pressed flat. The result is a heavy bulky edge in which there usually is two thicknesses of canvas or other stifi lining member which is always used, and any person skilled in the art can then see that the garment is machine finished.

The broad object therefore of this invention is to provide a lining adapted to be made and attached by machine work and which lining has only a single thickness of canvas which is secured to thetrousers. A further reference to Figure 1 will show that in accordance with usage in the ready made garment trade, and also very largely in custom made garments, the lining consists of and has the appearance of an upper body member 9 and a lower curtain 10 with a seam at 11 between them.

Figure 2 shows the lining made in two lengths 12 and 13 which are sewed together at the clanter back seam as at 14 and overlap soas to provide for alterations. In Figure 3 the two lengths 15 and 16 of the lining terminate a short distance from the center seam 5 as is very often the case with ordinary linings.

Referring now to Figure 4 which shows the finished lining in position, the reference numeral 7 designates a piece of lining material and the numeral 18 designates a strip of canvas or stiffening material. These two materials together form the lining. In the drawings these elements have been illustrated many times their real thickness as a matter of clearness. In actual practice the lining lies close and flat against the garmerit.

One objectof the invention is to construct the lining so that the edge 19 of the canvas 18 lies close against the fabric of the trousers 1 at the upper edge, so that when the is to sew the canvas to the garment ver'y close to the canvas edge 19 so as to stifi'en said edge and prevent unraveling. The stitching 21 serves this purpose. In order to prevent the tearing of the canvas when it is being stretched, as hereinafter explalned,

a second stitching 22 is required. It will be obvious to all skilled in the art that the result illustrated at the edge 20 in Figure 1 cannot be obtained by the usual method of placing the several layers on each other and sewing through them, because if the canvas is uppermost, the edges 23 of the trouser fabric and lining cannot be seen, and when the lining is uppermost, the edge 19 of the canvas cannot be seen.

In accordance with this invention the materials are placed on a sewing machine as shown in Figure 5 which illustrate the first step in the operation of sewing the lining to the trousers. It will be noted that.the sewing is done with double needles 24, 24. The canvas 18 is first placed in position with its upper edge 19 to the left and under the needles. Then the trousers 1 is placed on top of the canvas and the lining material 7 on top of the trousers as shown. Thereafter 1 the machine is started and sews the two rows of stitching 21 and 22.

During this operation it is of course utterly impossible to observe the edge-19 of the canvas and guide it under the needles, and in order to insure that the stitching 21 will be placed properly, we have provided an attachment 26, see igure 6, which comprises a guiding loop 27 and attaching flanges 28, 28. The attachment is secured to the bed of the sewing machine or the workbench by screws 29 passing through slots 30 so as to permit of being adjusted. The canvas 18 passes through the loop 27 and under the needles and is guided surely with respect to the latter so that the stitching 21 comes close to the edge 19 as intended.

Figure 6 shows in plan view how the operation is performed. The broken line 32 illustrates the position of the garment while the work is being done and the figure shows that the leading edge 19 of the canvas is hidden from view below the fabric 1.

Figure 7 illustrates the second step in the operation which consists in folding the lining material 7 to the right in Figure 5 and in over the canvas, after which the lining material is sewed to the canvas as at 33 by a single needle machine, and while this second stitching at 33 takes place, the lining is stretched tightly over the canvas from i left to right.

Referring again to Figure 4, the lining is finally sewed on to the trousers by bending the lower portion 35 of the lining material in under the canvas between the latter and the garment and then sew as at 36 through the garment and the completed lining 7. and

'said two other members, uniting all of the said three members by a double row of masses 18. Before sewing the final stitching as at 36, the trouser garment itself is folded over and around the upper sewed edge of the stiffening member, so that the latter lies with the upper fold formed by said garment. During the sewing as in Figure 7 the portion 35 and the curtain 10 are being folded to the left or held up as indicated. While the final sewing at 36 is being done as in Figure 4, the curtain is again held up or bent over so that the operator can observe the work.

The finished work appears as in Figures 1 and 4 which show a lining having a single layer of non-folded canvas secured to the garment by a double row of stitching at the top andtightly stretched thereon. The top stitching 21 does not appear at all and the entire appearance and efi'ect is that of very high grade work such as cannot be had except with very expensive handwork.

Figure 8 illustrates the first step of the operation more completely. The sewing machine is identified by its base 40, the dollble needle attachment 24, 24 and the presser foot 41. In this case the machine is supported on a work-bench 42. The attachment 26 must be placed so far back of the. needles as to permit the operator to complete the sewing and cut oi the lining and canvas. The flanges 28 may have the for shown in Figure 6 pr Figure 8.v

The lining proper and considered apart from the garment may be made in lengths or on rolls and sold as an article of manufacture, or 'it may be made up on the premises.

The lining may be in one piece as in Figure 4 where it"is folded to provide an upper portion 9, the seam at 11 and the curtain 10. The stitching at 11 secures these parts together. In addition the lining is folded to form a tape portion 45 which is sewed on to the canvas by the stitching 33.

We claim i 1. The method of securing a lining to the waist band of a pair of trousers, said lining consisting of a lining member and a canvas member, which consists in superimposing the lining member and the said waist band, with the latter underneath the lining member, on the canvas member in predetermined position with the edge of the canvas member hidden from view underneath the stitching while so positioned, then folding said members so that the canvas member occupies a position between the lining member and the waist band within a fold of the latter, then uniting the free edge of the canvas member with a portion of the lining member, and finally securing all of the three members together.

2. The method of ecuring a lining to the menace waist band of a pair of trousers, said lining consisting of a lining member and a canvas member, which consists in superimposing the lining member and the waist band, with the latter underneath the lining member, on the canvas member in predetermined position with the edge of the canvas member hidden from view underneath the said two other members, and with the body portion of the canvas member extending in a direction opposite to the direction of the body portion of the other members, then uniting all of the said three members by a double row of stitching while in the positions as aforesaid, then foldin said members so that the canvas mem er occupies a position between the lining member and the waist band within a fold of the latter and with the said double row of stitching concealed, and finally uniting all of the said three members together by other stitchings,

3. The combination with the waist band of a pair of trousers, of a lining therefor comprising a lining member and a canvas member, said waist band having its upper edge folded inwardly over the upper nonfolded edge of the said canvas member, and the said lining member having its upper edge folded outwardly upon itself and placed against the said inwardly folded por tion of the waist band, a double row of stitching concealed between the Waist band and the lining member for securing the said three members together, said stitching passing through the canvas member and the folded portions of the said two other members, and one of said rows of stitching being located closely adjacent the upper edge of the canvas member, and other stitchings for securing the lowermost body portions of the said three members together.

Signed this 10th da of F eb., A. D. 1920.

J O EPH RAAB. JACOB TENDRICH. 

